Ceratium is a genus of the phlyum Dinoflagellata. They are easily distingued from other types of dinoflagellates because of their morphological characteristics, described below. They are a relatively harmless group of organisms that play an important role as both predaotrs and prey in their environment.
[edit] Genome Structure
It is common for the minicircle (described below) gene transcripts to undergo editing in Caratium horridum. The editing leads to amino acid changes or the deletion of a stop codon.
[edit] Cell Structure and Metabolism
Ceratium spp. in the final stages of division. "Dinoflagellates" by Jean-Marie Cavanihac.
Ceratium species are easily identifiable because of their unique shape. They are covered with an armor-like cell wall, made out of polysaccharidel. The most distinguishing characteristic are the arms (also known as horns), the shape and size of which vary from species to species. Ceratium monoceras has a single, apical horn. The arms help Ceratium float, but prevent them from moving very quickly. Ceratium contain peridium. Another important feature is that they contain small plasmids (minicircles). Ceratium have two flagella. These wind around the cell body. The flagella each have different movements and shapes. The transverse flagellum beats in a spiral motion, while the longitudinal flagellum pulses in waves. Most Ceratium species also contain chloroplasts. Certain species are bioluminescent. Under adverse conditions, Ceratium are able to encyst themselves as a form of protection.
Ceratium are mixotrophs, obtaining food both through photosyntheis and phagocytosis.
Asexual reproduction is most common in Ceratium. However, sexual reproduction is also possible, usually taking place under adverse conditions.
[edit] Ecology
Ceratium ranipes "Dinoflagellates" by Jean-Marie Cavanihac.
Ceratium candelabrum. "Dinoflagellates" by Jean-Marie Cavanihac.
Ceratium are aquatic organisms, living in both marine and freshwater environments. They are most common in temperate areas, but can be found all over the world. Ceratium are found in the upper regions of the water, where there is enough light for photosynthesis. Unlike other dinoflagellate species such as Alexandrium, Ceratium are relatively harmless organisms. They are non-toxic, and are necessary forthe food web. However, they can cause a red tide if conditions allow for excessive blooming. While this red tide is not toxic, it can deplete resources in its environment, causing strain on the ecosystem. In general, though, Ceratium are necessary components of their habitats. They serve not just as nutrients for larger organisms, but they keeps smaller organisms in check through predation.
[edit] References
Cachon, Monique, Jean Cachon, Jacky Cosson, Claude Greuet, and Philippe Huitorel. "Dinoflageilate flagella adopt various conformations in response to different needs." Biot Cell (1991) 71, 175-182.
Cavanihac, Jean-Marie. "Dinoflagellates." Micscape Magazine. September 2001. Accessed 29 June 2005.
Dennis Kunkel Microscopy, Inc.
Hernández-Becerril, David U. and Rosalba Alonso-Rodríguez. "Study of the marine planktonic dinoflagellate Ceratium divaricatum (Dinophyceae), a confused and considerably variable species." Phycological Research 2004;52:346–354.
Johannesson, Bo et. al. "Ceratium-dinoflagellates." Aquascope. Accessed 29 June 2005.
Samson, Lauren A. "The distribution of the Dinoflagellate genus Ceratium off north-east Angsley, North Wales." January 2004. Accessed 30 June 2005.
Sigee, D.C., V. Krivtsov, and E. G. Bellinger. "Elemental concentrations, correlations and ratios in micropopulations of Ceratium hirundinella (Pyrrhophyta): an X-ray microanalytical study." Eur. J. Phycol. (1998) 33: 155-164.
Smalley, Gabriela W. and D. Wayne Coats. "Ecology of the red-tide dinoflagellate Ceratium furca: distribution, mixotrophy, and grazing impact on ciliate populations of Chesapeake Bay." The Journal of eukaryotic microbiology. 2002 Jan-Feb;49(1):63-73.
Temponeras, M., J. Kristiansen, and M. Moustaka-Gouni. "A new Ceratium species (Dinophyceae) from Lake Doïrani, Macedonia, Greece." Hydrobiologia 424: 101–108, 2000.
Zauner, Stephan, Doris Greilinger, Thomas Laatsch, Klaus V. Kowallik, and Uwe-G. Maier. "Substitutional editing of transcripts from genes of cyanobacterial origin in the dinoflagellate Ceratium horridum." FEBS letters. 2004 Nov 19;577(3):535-8.
Retrieved from "http://microbewiki.kenyon.edu/index.php/Ceratium"
petak, 14. prosinca 2007.
What you need for mouse trap?
What you will need
You will need the following equipment which can be found in most households.
1) A large, smooth surfaced, low sided tray
2) A deep, rectangular baking tin of slightly smaller size made of glass or metal
3) A bamboo kebab skewer
4) A cocktail stick
5) Adhesive tape
You will need the following equipment which can be found in most households.
1) A large, smooth surfaced, low sided tray
2) A deep, rectangular baking tin of slightly smaller size made of glass or metal
3) A bamboo kebab skewer
4) A cocktail stick
5) Adhesive tape
Mouse Trap
What you will need
You will need the following equipment which can be found in most households.
1) A large, smooth surfaced, low sided tray
2) A deep, rectangular baking tin of slightly smaller size made of glass or metal
3) A bamboo kebab skewer
4) A cocktail stick
5) Adhesive tape
How to build it
1) Take the bamboo skewer and bend it through 90 degrees approximately 1/4 of the way along its length. Do not snap it completely.
2) Fix the 90 degree bend so it is rigid by attaching a cocktail stick with adhesive tape.
3) Place a small piece of cheese or peanut butter on the long end of the skewer. Alternatively use a bent coat hanger which works just as well.
4) Place the baking dish open side down on the tray and prop it up with the skewer as shown in the diagram. This may take a little practice. Curved dishes roll to the side so a square edged dish is essential. IMPORTANT - do not prop it up too high - just enough for the mouse to get under. If it is too high there is a chance the mouse will get underneath it as it falls and be injured.
5) A mouse can easily enter the space under the dish to get the bait but as soon as he touches it the dish falls and traps him. He cannot be injured as the bait is well away from the falling edge.
6) The tray and dish, with trapped mouse can be taken to a distant location and the mouse can be released without injury.
TIPS
You can see what you have caught if you use a glass dish.
You can stabalise the dish to stop it rolling by putting a little bit of bluetac or plastecine between it and the tray.
If the trap has been activated and there is no mouse caught check that the dish is heavy enough to secure the captive. If in doubt set the trap with a book placed on top of the dish.
Take the mouse a good distance away from home before releasing it. I recommend at least a mile.
If you scale up the apparatus for rats then a book - or a house brick - will be essential.
Be careful when releasing rats as they can be aggressive. Do not release them in an enclosed space. Allow them an obvious direction to escape away from you.
Check how the mice got into your house in the first place. Many will enter through open doors and windows which can be closed. Make sure that skirtings and under floor areas are sealed or you will be taking rodents away for ever.
You will need the following equipment which can be found in most households.
1) A large, smooth surfaced, low sided tray
2) A deep, rectangular baking tin of slightly smaller size made of glass or metal
3) A bamboo kebab skewer
4) A cocktail stick
5) Adhesive tape
How to build it
1) Take the bamboo skewer and bend it through 90 degrees approximately 1/4 of the way along its length. Do not snap it completely.
2) Fix the 90 degree bend so it is rigid by attaching a cocktail stick with adhesive tape.
3) Place a small piece of cheese or peanut butter on the long end of the skewer. Alternatively use a bent coat hanger which works just as well.
4) Place the baking dish open side down on the tray and prop it up with the skewer as shown in the diagram. This may take a little practice. Curved dishes roll to the side so a square edged dish is essential. IMPORTANT - do not prop it up too high - just enough for the mouse to get under. If it is too high there is a chance the mouse will get underneath it as it falls and be injured.
5) A mouse can easily enter the space under the dish to get the bait but as soon as he touches it the dish falls and traps him. He cannot be injured as the bait is well away from the falling edge.
6) The tray and dish, with trapped mouse can be taken to a distant location and the mouse can be released without injury.
TIPS
You can see what you have caught if you use a glass dish.
You can stabalise the dish to stop it rolling by putting a little bit of bluetac or plastecine between it and the tray.
If the trap has been activated and there is no mouse caught check that the dish is heavy enough to secure the captive. If in doubt set the trap with a book placed on top of the dish.
Take the mouse a good distance away from home before releasing it. I recommend at least a mile.
If you scale up the apparatus for rats then a book - or a house brick - will be essential.
Be careful when releasing rats as they can be aggressive. Do not release them in an enclosed space. Allow them an obvious direction to escape away from you.
Check how the mice got into your house in the first place. Many will enter through open doors and windows which can be closed. Make sure that skirtings and under floor areas are sealed or you will be taking rodents away for ever.
Pretplati se na:
Postovi (Atom)